After the Accra International Marathon: Cape Coast and Elmina
The Route: Accra → Cape Coast → Elmina → Accra Logistics: The castles are west of Accra on the coast road. Hire a car and driver for the transfer and the local days, because castle-to-castle distances are short but the coast road is slow. Marathon Month: October Duration: 2 nights
Accra ──(several hours by road)──> Cape Coast ──(short drive west)──> Elmina ──(several hours)──> Accra
These are not light sites. Cape Coast Castle and Elmina Castle were holding places in the Atlantic slave trade, and the guided tours go through dungeons, cells and the exit gate to the sea. Allow time and energy beyond the walking, and do not schedule anything cheerful straight afterwards.
October in Cape Coast. October is wet on the Central Region coast, and the Kakum rainforest is wetter. Pack a waterproof and shoes with grip, and plan outdoor stops for the morning.
Getting there and back
A hired car is the most practical choice. The route runs west along the coast, and the journey time depends on how long Accra traffic takes to clear, so leave right after breakfast. Kakum National Park is about four hours from Accra by road, which gives a sense of the scale of the trip. Agree the return time and price before leaving. The Foreign Office advises prearranged transport and care on the roads after dark.
Night one: Cape Coast
Cape Coast began as a Portuguese trading post called Cabo Corso in the sixteenth century. Swedes built a timber lodge there in 1653, the Danish and Dutch followed, and the English took it in 1664 and renamed it Cape Coast Castle. The castle was rebuilt in the 1760s and 1770s, including new dungeons beneath the bastions, and the underground cells are thought to have held up to a thousand people at a time. Both castles were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979 as part of the Forts and Castles group.
The tour is a slow walk through courtyards and passages, and the steps in the dungeon areas are the main physical demand. Seats are limited, so go at a pace the guide will accept. Check current opening hours and fees with the Ghana Museums and Monuments Board before you travel.
Night two: Elmina
Elmina Castle, also known as St George's, was built by the Portuguese in 1482, and it is the oldest surviving European building in sub-Saharan Africa. The Dutch took it later and held it until 1814, using it as a trading depot for enslaved people. The castle has a courtyard, a church, holding cells and an export gate. From the battlements you can see the harbour, the fishing boats and Fort St Jago on the hill.
The museum lists daily opening from 9:00am to 4:30pm. An older fee table listed adult foreigners at GH¢40, which will have risen, so check before you go. Guided tours cover the storehouses, dungeons, chapels and the governor's chamber. The castle has a restaurant and bar, a bookshop and a car park.
Where to stay and eat
Coconut Grove Beach Resort stands on the beach just west of Elmina, off the Cape Coast to Takoradi highway. It has a pool and beachside dining, and it is the easiest choice if you want a seaside base with a pool for your legs. Cape Coast and Elmina also have smaller guesthouses within walking distance of the castles, and a hotel or driver can advise on a central one. Menus lean on fish, so ask what the kitchen has that day.
Getting home
Leave Cape Coast in the morning for the drive back to Accra. Do not plan a same-day flight, and leave at least a day between returning and any international departure.
Practical notes
- Kakum National Park is a detour from Cape Coast, with a 333 m canopy walkway on seven suspension bridges, up to 27 m above the forest floor. It opens 6am to 4pm, and you need both hands on the ropes, so go only if your legs feel steady.
- Take a small bag, and carry water into the castles.
- Respect the setting. Many visitors come to the dungeons with family history in mind, and photography rules vary by site.