Route
Cali ──── road north through the sugar-cane valley, ~70 km, ~1 h 15 ──── Buga
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Basilica ─ plaza ─ Laguna de Sonso
The road north from Cali runs through the flat floor of the Cauca valley, a landscape of sugar cane, pasture and distant Andean ridges on both sides. Buga, about 70 km away, is a market town with a colonial centre and one of Colombia's best-known pilgrimage sites. It is flat, small and quiet, and everything is within a short walk.
Buses to Buga leave regularly from the Cali bus terminal, and the journey takes about an hour and a quarter in light traffic. A shared taxi or a hired driver is faster and costs more. Check the current timetable and fares at the terminal.
April in Buga
Buga sits at around 1,000 m, close to Cali's climate, with warm days of 28 to 30 °C and afternoon showers likely in April. A light waterproof and a hat are enough.
Night one: the basilica and the plaza
The Basílica del Señor de los Milagros dominates the town. Its twin towers and neo-Gothic stonework were built in the early twentieth century, and it houses a crucifix that, according to local tradition, was found by a washerwoman in the river in the sixteenth century. Pilgrims arrive from across Colombia, and the surrounding streets are lined with stalls selling candles, religious souvenirs and sweets. Visit in the late afternoon, when the stone is cooler. Dress modestly and respect services in progress.
The recovery walk is the grid of flat streets around the main plaza, which are shaded by trees and busy with families in the evening. The pavements are level and the distances are short. Sit in the plaza and watch the town go by.
For a bed, choose a small hotel within a few streets of the basilica so that dinner and the evening walk need no taxi. Rooms are modest and fairly priced, but book ahead on weekends and religious holidays, when pilgrims fill the town. Check whether the room has air conditioning.
Eat local: sancocho de gallina, grilled meats and fresh fruit juices. Restaurants around the plaza serve similar menus at similar prices.
Day two: the wetland
If you want to get out of town, the Laguna de Sonso is a protected wetland a short taxi ride away. It shelters hundreds of bird species, including herons and ducks, and boat trips run on the lagoon. Ask your hotel to arrange a guide and a boat, and confirm the current access conditions first, since water levels and access vary.
In the afternoon, take a bus back to Cali or on towards the airport.
Getting home
Alfonso Bonilla Aragón airport (CLO) is about 30 minutes from the Buga road on the Cali side. Allow extra time if you have a flight the same day. Check bus times and the wetland's opening before you travel.