← Casablanca International Marathon·2 nights

Fez: Two Nights in the Medieval Medina

Two nights in a riad inside the walled medina of Fes el-Bali, with a realistic plan for its hills and steps on tired legs.

Duration2 nights
TransitONCF train, about 4 hours from Casablanca Voyageurs
DepartsCasablanca Voyageurs

After the Casablanca International Marathon: Fez

The Route: Casablanca Voyageurs → Fès Ville → Casablanca → Mohammed V Airport Logistics: ONCF train, about four hours each way, then a petit taxi to the medina gate. Marathon Month: October Duration: 2 nights

Casablanca Voyageurs ──(about 4 hrs ONCF train)──> Fès Ville ──(petit taxi, 15 mins)──> Bab Boujloud
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Mohammed V Airport (CMN) ◄──(ONCF train via Casa Voyageurs)── Fès Ville ◄──(taxi)─────────┘

The Casablanca International Marathon finishes on Sunday. Fez is the long, slow answer to the question of what to do on Monday: a train ride of about four hours, then a medina that was founded in the ninth century and has no cars inside it. It is also hilly, narrow and full of steps, so this trip needs a plan.

October in Fez: daytime highs are in the high 20s, falling to the mid-teens at night, and the first rains of the season can arrive. The medina is cooler in the shade than the boulevards outside, and mornings are the most comfortable time to walk.

ONCF trains from Casablanca Voyageurs to Fès Ville take about four hours. Check the timetable and fare at oncf.ma, and reserve a seat if you can. First class is worth the extra on a long journey after a marathon. From the station, a petit taxi takes about 15 minutes to Bab Boujloud, the blue gate at the western entrance to Fes el-Bali.

Nights One and Two: Fez

Fes el-Bali, the old walled medina, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is among the largest car-free urban zones in the world. Its lanes run downhill from Bab Boujloud to the Qarawiyyin quarter and the river, then climb back out. Everything is on a slope, and there are many steps.

The gentlest route is the main artery, Talaa Kebira, which drops steadily towards the centre from Bab Boujloud. It is cobbled and busy with porters and donkeys, and the slope is easy going down and tiring coming back up. A better plan is to take a petit taxi to the Bab Boujloud end, walk downhill slowly, and return by taxi from the lower gates, which reduces the climbing. A guide for the first morning is worth the money, partly for the navigation and partly because the medina is hard to read alone.

The Bou Inania Madrasa is a fourteenth-century Marinid theological school with carved cedar, zellij tilework and stucco; entry is charged at a small fee. The Chouara Tannery is the best-known sight, a set of stone vats where leather is dyed, and the view comes from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops. The smell is strong, so the shopkeepers hand out sprigs of mint, and the terrace route involves stairs.

The Jnan Sbil Gardens sit just outside the walls near Bab Boujloud, with level paths, shade and benches. They are the best flat walk in the city and a sensible recovery stop.

Where to Stay

Riads, the courtyard houses of the medina, are the usual choice. Palais Amani and Riad Laaroussa are both restored houses within the old city. Ask your riad how they handle luggage, because carts and porters come from the nearest road gate, and ask them to arrange a taxi to the medina gate for arrival.

Where to Eat

Fez has its own cooking. Try pastilla (pigeon or chicken pie with almonds and cinnamon), and the lamb and prune tagines that are common here. Many riads serve dinner to guests, which saves a night of climbing.

Getting Home

Return by ONCF train from Fès Ville to Casablanca Voyageurs, then take the airport train to Mohammed V Airport (CMN). Check whether a direct service runs on your day. Allow a full half-day for the journey if you have an evening flight, and book a seat in advance.