After the Firenze Marathon: Bologna and Modena
The Route: Florence → Bologna → Modena → Bologna Logistics: High-speed train from Florence Santa Maria Novella to Bologna Centrale, about 35 minutes. Regional trains run on to Modena, about 30 minutes further. Marathon Month: November Duration: 2 nights
Florence ──(35 mins high-speed train)──> Bologna Centrale ──(30 mins regional train)──> Modena
Bologna has kilometres of covered arcades, which is the main reason to go in November after a race. The porticoes run along nearly every street in the old town, so the rain does not reach you, and the pavements are flat. The city also has a reputation as the best place to eat in Italy, and after a marathon that is a strong second reason.
November in Bologna: cold, foggy and often damp, with daytime temperatures of about 5 to 11 °C. The arcades keep most of the weather off. The light is soft and early dark, and the streets are busy with students rather than tourists.
Trains between Florence and Bologna run frequently and take about 35 minutes on the high-speed line. Buy a ticket in advance for the fast service if you want a fixed price, and check trenitalia.com or italotreno.it for the Monday timetable.
Night one: Bologna
Piazza Maggiore is the main square, with the huge, unfinished brick basilica of San Petronio on one side and the Palazzo d'Accursio on another. It is flat and paved. Check the opening hours of the basilica.
The Two Towers, the Asinelli and the Garisenda, lean over the road a few minutes' walk away. The Asinelli can be climbed by about 500 steps, which is not a day-after-marathon activity. Look at them from the street. Check the current state of the Garisenda, which has been closed to visitors for structural reasons.
The arcaded streets around Via dell'Indipendenza and the Quadrilatero market area are the best places to wander. Food shops, delicatessens and small restaurants line the streets, and it is easy to walk from one to the next. The porticoes were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021. Look for a hotel near the station or in the centre, and confirm it is open in November.
For dinner, tagliatelle al ragù and tortellini in brodo are the local classics. Book ahead for a Monday night, as some restaurants close.
Night two: Modena
Take a regional train to Modena for the day. The cathedral and its leaning tower are UNESCO-listed and sit in a small central area. The covered Mercato Albinelli is a good place for lunch. Modena is known for traditional balsamic vinegar, and several producers around the city offer tastings, usually by appointment. Check the days and book ahead.
Return to Bologna in the evening for the second night, or stay in Modena if you prefer a smaller town. A regional train runs between the two cities. Check the timetable and the last departure.
Getting home
Bologna has its own airport, Guglielmo Marconi, connected to the station by a shuttle. For a return to Florence, take the high-speed train, and check the timetable for your flight.