After the Firenze Marathon: Siena
The Route: Florence → Siena Logistics: Regional train or intercity bus from Florence to Siena, about 1 hour 30 minutes by train and often a little less by bus. Siena's train station is below the old town, so a bus or taxi up to the centre helps. Marathon Month: November Duration: 1 night
Florence ──(1 hr 30 train or bus)──> Siena station ──(bus or taxi up)──> Piazza del Campo
Siena is Florence's medieval rival, and it has a different feel. It is smaller, redder and steeper, built on three ridges, and it is organised around a single sloping square. The catch for a marathoner is that the old town has almost no flat ground, so this is a trip that rewards a slow pace and a good pair of shoes.
November in Siena: cold and often wet, with daytime temperatures of about 6 to 12 °C and early dark. The town is quiet in winter and its stone streets can be slippery in rain. Bring a waterproof and a warm layer.
Regional trains run from Florence Santa Maria Novella to Siena, and intercity buses also serve the route. Check trenitalia.com or the bus operator for the Monday timetable. From the train station, a bus climbs to the old town and a taxi is the alternative. If you arrive by bus, the terminal is closer to the centre.
Night one: Siena
Piazza del Campo is the heart of the city, a fan-shaped square that slopes down to the Palazzo Pubblico, the town hall, and its tall tower, the Torre del Mangia. The tower has about 400 steps and is a poor idea the day after a marathon. Sit on the paving instead, as locals do, and watch the light change. The square is where the Palio horse race runs in summer, and in November it is empty and calm.
The cathedral, with its black and white striped marble, is a short walk uphill. It is a large interior with a floor of inlaid marble scenes. Check the opening hours, ticket prices and any restrictions on the floor's display.
Siena's streets are steep and often stepped. Keep to the main routes, take the bus for longer legs and stop often. The Terzi, the three districts, each have their own character, and a wander between them is enough for an evening.
Two or three hotels within the old walls make a walkable base. Look for a room close to the Campo, and confirm that the property is open in November. Book a refundable rate.
For dinner, Siena's cooking is Tuscan and hearty. Pici, a thick hand-rolled pasta, is the local speciality, often served with garlic and tomato or a meat ragù. Panforte, a dense spiced cake, is the sweet. Book ahead for a Monday night.
Getting back
Take the bus or train back to Florence in the morning. If you are flying from Florence, the airport connects to the centre by tram. Check the timetables and allow extra time.