Heidelberg is Germany's most photographed view: the red sandstone castle on the wooded slope above the Neckar, the Alte Brücke (the 18th-century bridge) in the valley below, the Altstadt (old town) along the north bank. The funicular (Bergbahn) makes the castle accessible on post-marathon legs. Germany's oldest university (1386) still in continuous operation fills the town with students and gives Heidelberg a liveliness that pure tourist destinations lack.
Getting There
ICE from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof to Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof: approximately 50 minutes. Trains run frequently. Note: Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof is 2 km west of the Altstadt; tram or bus from the station to Bismarckplatz (5 minutes), then walk east into the old town.
Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberger Schloss (UNESCO tentative list; entry to grounds approximately €9 including funicular, castle interior approximately €15): the ruined Renaissance and Baroque palace on the Königstuhl slope above the Neckar. The castle was largely destroyed by French forces in 1689 and 1693 and never fully rebuilt; the ruins are now the most Romantic castle view in Germany, which is saying something.
The Bergbahn (funicular): two sections, lower section from Kornmarkt in the Altstadt to the castle (the relevant section), upper section continuing to the Königstuhl summit. Post-marathon, take the funicular up and walk down - the descent through the castle grounds and down the Burgweg path is 20 minutes of gentle gradient.
The Great Barrel (Das Grosse Fass): a wine vat in the castle cellar capable of holding 221,726 litres, built in 1751. The castle grounds are free to wander; the interior requires the ticket.
The view from the castle terrace over the Altstadt and the Neckar valley is the reason to come: the Alte Brücke, the church towers of the Altstadt, the flat Rhein plain to the west, and on clear days the Pfalz hills.
The Altstadt
The Altstadt runs along the north bank of the Neckar - an almost intact 18th-century street plan (the previous town was destroyed in 1689-93 along with the castle). The Hauptstrasse (the main street) runs 1.6 km from Bismarckplatz to the Karlstor, lined with baroque palaces now occupied by cafes, shops, and university departments.
Heidelberg University (Ruprecht-Karls-Universität, founded 1386): buildings throughout the Altstadt. The Universitätsplatz (university square) is the social heart of the Altstadt. The Student Prison (Studentenkarzer, entry approximately €4) on Augustinergasse was used by the university from 1778 to 1914 for disciplining students; the walls and ceilings are covered in graffiti from student prisoners over 130 years.
Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Ghost): the Gothic church on the Marktplatz at the centre of the Altstadt, with a tower that can be climbed for views over the rooflines.
The Philosophers' Walk
Philosophenweg (Philosophers' Walk): the path on the south-facing slope of the Heiligenberg hill opposite the Altstadt, reached by the Theodor-Heuss-Brücke (the northern bridge) and then the steps of the Schlangenweg (Serpentine Path). The path runs along the hillside above the Neckar, with continuous views over the castle, the Altstadt, and the river valley.
The Schlangenweg steps (approximately 200 steps from the bridge to the path) are the steepest part. Post-marathon Day Two, not Day One. The path itself, once on the hillside, is flat and runs 1 km with benches at intervals.
The Philosophers' Walk was frequented by Goethe, Hegel, and Weber; the name comes from the 19th-century tradition of academic walking. The view of the castle across the valley is best in the late afternoon light.
The Neckar and the Alte Brücke
Karl-Theodor-Brücke (Alte Brücke): the 18th-century bridge (actually the ninth bridge on this site since Roman times, built in 1788) with its distinctive twin-towered gate and the monkey sculpture on the bridge abutment. The flat riverbank path (Uferstrasse) runs east from the Alte Brücke - 3 km of flat path along the Neckar toward the hill towns upstream, good for post-marathon walking.
Where to Stay
Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg on Hauptstrasse: a Renaissance building from 1592, the only building to survive the 1689 destruction intact. The historic choice. Heidelberg Suites on Neuenheimer Landstrasse: design suites on the north bank, with castle views. Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten on Haspelgasse: mid-range, central Altstadt position.
Where to Eat
Zum Roten Ochsen on Hauptstrasse (open since 1703): the student beer hall with carved wooden benches, the correct Heidelberg dinner experience. Vetter's Alt Heidelberger Brauhaus on Steingasse for the local dark beer (Hefeweizen). Simplicissimus on Ingrimstrasse for more serious Palatinate cooking.
Practical Notes
- Heidelberg is 80 km south of Frankfurt.
- October in Heidelberg: 8-14°C. The autumn colour on the Heiligenberg and the castle slopes is at its best in late October.
- The Bergbahn funicular is free with the castle entrance ticket.
- Return to Frankfurt: 50 minutes by ICE from Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof, frequent services.