After the Funchal Marathon: Porto Moniz
The Route: Funchal → São Vicente → Porto Moniz → Madeira Airport (FNC) Logistics: Hire car from Funchal, about 1 hour 15 minutes by the VE3 and VE4 expressways, or Rodoeste bus route 80, about 2 hours 30 minutes. Drive back to the airport on the second day in about 1 hour 30 minutes. Marathon Month: January Duration: 1 night
Funchal ──(1 hr 15 mins car, VE3/VE4 tunnels)──> Porto Moniz
│
Madeira Airport (FNC) ◄──(about 1 hr 30 mins car)──────┘
The Funchal Marathon keeps to the island's sheltered south coast. Porto Moniz, at the far north-west corner of Madeira, is the opposite: exposed, wild and facing the open Atlantic. The town is small, and its reason for fame is a set of natural swimming pools formed in black volcanic rock at the water's edge.
January in Porto Moniz is a winter on the north coast. It is usually a few degrees cooler and wetter than Funchal, and the Atlantic swell is at its strongest. The natural pools often close when the sea is high, and swimming in January is only for the determined. On a rough day the spectacle is the waves breaking over the lava. Treat the trip as a night on the coast, not a swim.
The fastest way is by hire car. The VE3 and VE4 expressways cut through the mountains in a series of tunnels and reach Porto Moniz in about 1 hour 15 minutes. The coast road via São Vicente adds about 20 minutes, with waterfalls and cliffs along the way; take it for the scenery and stop in São Vicente for coffee. Rodoeste's bus route 80 runs from Funchal via Ribeira Brava and São Vicente in about 2 hours 30 minutes, with few departures, particularly at weekends. A car also makes the airport run the next day simple.
Night One: Porto Moniz
The pools. The natural pools sit right on the seafront, and the promenade around them is flat and paved. Walking round and watching the swell takes as long as you want it to. When the pools are open there is a small entry charge; check at the gate.
The aquarium. The Aquário da Madeira occupies the old fort on the seafront and shows the marine life of the island's waters. It is indoors, on level floors, and a sensible choice on a wet afternoon. Check opening days and prices before you go.
The viewpoints. The roads above the town have viewpoints over the pools and the islet of Ilhéu Mole with its lighthouse. The road up is steep, so drive it.
Where to stay. Aqua Natura Madeira is a four-star hotel just above the natural pools, on the Rotunda da Piscina, with rooms looking over the sea. Aqua Natura Bay, from the same group, is also on the seafront. Both put the pools and the promenade outside the door, so there is no need to drive again once you arrive.
Where to eat. The seafront has a handful of restaurants serving grilled fish, espada and limpets. In January some keep shorter hours, so check which are open when you arrive and book for the evening.
Getting to Madeira Airport (FNC)
Madeira Airport (FNC) is on the east coast, near Santa Cruz. From Porto Moniz, drive back through the tunnels on the VE4 and VE3 and continue east past Funchal on the VR1, about 1 hour 30 minutes in normal traffic. Return the hire car at the airport. Madeira Airport is sometimes affected by strong winds, so leave a generous margin and check your flight status before setting off.