After the Goldfields Pipeline Marathon: Esperance

The Route: Kalgoorlie → Norseman → Esperance → Cape Le Grand → Esperance Airport Logistics: Hire car, about 4.5 hours south on sealed highway. A car is needed at Esperance. Marathon Month: July Duration: 3 nights

Kalgoorlie ──(approx. 2 hrs, via Coolgardie)──> Norseman ──(approx. 2 hrs 15 mins)──> Esperance
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                          Cape Le Grand National Park ◄──(approx. 45 mins)─────────────────┤
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                  Esperance Airport (EPR) ◄──(approx. 20 mins)─────────────────────────────┘

The Goldfields Pipeline Marathon finishes in Kalgoorlie-Boulder in mid-July. Four and a half hours south, the gold fields' red earth gives way to the Southern Ocean at Esperance, a small town facing a bay scattered with granite islands, with beaches of fine white sand and clear water on its doorstep.

July in Esperance is winter: mild days in the mid to high teens, cool nights and rain passing through. The beaches are empty and far too cold for most swimmers, but July is in the whale season: southern right and humpback whales pass along the coast and sometimes shelter in the bays from about June to October. Sightings are not guaranteed. Pack a waterproof and a warm layer.

Drive south from Kalgoorlie through Coolgardie and Norseman on the Coolgardie–Esperance Highway. It is sealed but long and straight, with few towns; fuel up in Norseman. Avoid driving at dawn and dusk, when kangaroos are on the road.

Night One: Esperance

Esperance takes its name from a French ship, L'Espérance, which sheltered in the bay in 1792. The town is small, laid out along the foreshore. The Esperance foreshore path runs along the bay for several kilometres, flat and sealed, with benches, playgrounds and a view across to the islands of the Recherche Archipelago. Walk as far as feels right.

Night Two: The Great Ocean Drive

The Great Ocean Drive is a loop of about 40 km west of the town, past a string of beaches and lookouts, each a short walk from a car park. Twilight Beach and Blue Haven Beach are the best known, with white sand and turquoise water between granite headlands. The Pink Lake, on the same drive, has lost its colour in recent years and is now mostly pale. Most lookouts are level; beach access has steps or sandy slopes.

Night Three: Cape Le Grand

Cape Le Grand National Park, about 45 minutes east of Esperance, is the reason many visitors make the trip. Lucky Bay, inside the park, has a wide crescent of fine, squeaky white sand where western grey kangaroos often lie on the beach or wander along the water's edge. The beach is flat and firm near the waterline. A national park fee applies per vehicle; check current prices with Parks and Wildlife WA.

Frenchman Peak, a granite dome in the park, has a steep, rocky climb to a cave near the top; it is not for the week after a marathon. Hellfire Bay and Thistle Cove, a short drive from Lucky Bay, have more beaches and flat walking.

Where to stay: Hotels, motels and holiday apartments line the Esperance foreshore; choose one facing the bay for the view and the flat path outside. Inside Cape Le Grand, the Lucky Bay campground has sites behind the dunes for anyone with camping gear.

Where to eat: The Esperance foreshore has cafés and restaurants serving local seafood. Several reduce their hours in winter; check before planning dinner.

Getting to Esperance Airport

Esperance Airport (EPR), about 20 minutes north of the town, has flights to Perth, with onward connections. Returning a hire car at Esperance may carry a one-way fee if it was collected in Kalgoorlie. Driving back to Kalgoorlie-Boulder Airport (KGI) takes about 4.5 hours.