Route
Lima ──── Pan-American Highway south, ~4 h ──── Paracas
│
Waterfront promenade ─ Ballestas Islands boat
The Pan-American Highway runs south from Lima through desert so dry that the horizon looks like a ruled line. Four hours later the road turns off for Paracas, a small town on a protected bay with a promenade, a pier and a row of seafood restaurants. The landscape is sand and sea with almost no relief, which suits legs that have just run 42 km.
Long-distance bus companies serve Paracas from Lima. Book a ticket in advance for the Monday after the race, choose a daytime departure and take a seat with legroom. Traffic leaving Lima can add time, so allow for delays. If you have a flight home the same week, keep the schedule loose rather than tight.
May in Paracas
May is cool and dry on this coast, with highs near 24 °C, cold sea breezes and a mist in the morning. The wind rises in the afternoon and blows sand along the shore, so a windproof layer and sunglasses are useful.
Night one: the waterfront
The recovery walk is the promenade along the bay, which is paved, flat and lined with benches and restaurants. A slow stroll from end to end takes about 20 minutes. At sunset, the bay turns pink and gold and the pelicans fly in along the shoreline. The pier is a good place to watch the fishing boats.
For a bed, the Hotel Paracas, a Luxury Collection Resort, sits on the shore with a pool and beach access, and the Aranwa Paracas Resort is another large resort option nearby. Both are comfortable but not cheap. Smaller hotels in the town offer simpler rooms at lower rates. Choose a place within a short walk of the promenade or with its own pool.
Eat seafood: ceviche, grilled fish, scallops from the bay and rice with shellfish. The restaurants along the waterfront serve similar menus at similar prices, so choose one with a view and a menu you can read.
Day two: the Ballestas Islands
Boats leave the pier in the morning for the Ballestas Islands, a group of rock outcrops about 45 minutes offshore. The tour lasts around two hours and includes sea lions, boobies, pelicans and sometimes Humboldt penguins. Passengers do not land on the islands. On the way out, the boat passes the Candelabro, a huge figure scratched into a hillside by an unknown people. Sea conditions can be rough, and tours are sometimes cancelled, so book with an operator that offers a refund or a new date. Take a windproof jacket and a hat.
After the boat trip, take a late-morning bus back to Lima, or stay for a lunch on the waterfront first. Allow for the return journey of about four hours.
Getting home
Jorge Chávez airport (LIM) is on the far side of Lima from the bus terminals, so allow extra time for a flight. Do not book a same-day international departure after the Paracas bus. Check the current bus schedule and boat times before you travel.