Chester is the best-preserved Roman city in Britain. The walls are intact, the streets follow the Roman grid, and the medieval Rows - covered galleries one floor above street level running the length of the four main streets - create a sheltered shopping circuit that can be done entirely under cover if April delivers its usual Manchester weather.
Getting There
Northern Rail or Avanti West Coast from Manchester Piccadilly to Chester: approximately 40 minutes direct. Trains run at least twice per hour. Chester station is a 5-minute walk from the city walls at the Eastgate.
The Roman Walls
Chester's Roman walls form a complete 2-kilometre circuit of the city - the most complete surviving Roman city walls in Britain. The circuit is walkable at post-marathon pace in 45-60 minutes. The path runs along the top of the wall, mostly flat (some steps at the corners), with views over the city centre on one side and the surrounding streets on the other.
Key points on the wall circuit:
- Eastgate Clock (Victoria era, 1897): the most photographed clock in England after Big Ben, built to celebrate Victoria's Diamond Jubilee
- The Kaleyard Gate: the smallest gate in the wall circuit, said to have been used by monks from the cathedral to reach their vegetable gardens
- The Roodee: the oldest surviving horse racing course in England (since 1539), visible from the western wall above the River Dee
- The Bridge Gate: the gate to the medieval bridge over the Dee, with views upstream toward the Welsh hills
The walls are free to walk and accessible from multiple points around the circuit.
The Rows
The Rows are a medieval phenomenon unique to Chester: covered galleries running along the first floor of the four main streets (Eastgate Street, Northgate Street, Watergate Street, Bridge Street), with shops at street level below and shops in the galleries above. The galleries are continuous - you can walk the four streets without descending to pavement level.
The explanation for this peculiarity is disputed: they may have been built over Roman basements, or may reflect medieval trading practices that used upper floor space. Whatever the origin, the result is that Chester has a covered circuit of independent and chain shops that can be walked in any weather.
The Rows are free to walk; the shops trade normal hours. The best concentration of independent shops is on Watergate Street and in the medieval courts off Bridge Street.
The Cathedral and City Centre
Chester Cathedral (suggested donation £5): a Benedictine monastery church that became a cathedral at the Reformation. The medieval choir stalls (1380) are among the finest in England. The refectory has been used as a dining room since the 13th century. The cathedral close garden is flat and useful for a quiet sit-down.
The Grosvenor Museum on Grosvenor Street (free): the most significant collection of Roman tombstones in Britain. Chester (Deva Victrix) was a legionary fortress from 74 AD; the museum has the tombstones from the Roman cemetery, many with portrait reliefs still legible. The local history galleries cover the medieval and Georgian city.
Where to Eat
The Architect on Northgate Street: smart pub in a converted Victorian building, good for post-wall-walk lunch. Joseph Benjamin on Northgate Street: the better independent restaurant for a more substantial lunch. The Refectory in the cathedral: self-service cafe in the medieval dining hall.
Practical Notes
- Chester is 18 miles southwest of Manchester.
- Post-marathon Monday is excellent: the walls and Rows are accessible throughout the week, and Chester is quieter on weekdays.
- Parking in Chester is expensive and restricted; the train is strongly preferred.
- Return trains to Manchester run frequently throughout the afternoon; last trains back are well after 21:00.