After the Milan Marathon: Varenna
The Route: Milano Centrale → Varenna-Esino → Milano Malpensa or Linate Logistics: A direct train from Milano Centrale in about 64 minutes, with a train roughly every hour. The village is small and the lake-front is flat. Marathon Month: April Duration: 1 night
Milano Centrale ──(about 64 mins direct train)──> Varenna-Esino ──(ferry, about 15-20 mins)──> Bellagio
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Milan airports ◄──(train to Milano Centrale, then airport link)──────────┘
Lake Como is a day trip from Milan in summer and a quiet stay in April. The Milan Marathon ends on a Sunday in early April, so the lake the next day is a long way from the crowds and the noise of the race. The direct train from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino takes about 64 minutes with a service about every hour from early morning until the evening, and a second-class fare starts at about €7.40. Check the timetable at trenord.it before travelling.
April in Varenna: the weather is changeable, with mild sunshine and cold evenings, and the mountains across the lake can hold snow. The lake is too cold for swimming. Spring flowers are starting in the gardens, but the show depends on the year. Ferries run a reduced timetable before the summer season, so look at the current schedule before you plan a crossing, and keep a margin.
Night One: Varenna
Varenna is a small village of steep alleys and a flat lake-front walkway, the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, which runs along the water below the houses. It is paved and level, and it takes about 15 minutes to walk from one end to the other. The streets above it are narrow and have steps.
Two villas on the lake have gardens. Villa Monastero has terraced gardens along the shore, and Villa Cipressi is a short walk away. Check the opening days and prices, because garden seasons begin in spring and early April may fall just before or just after the opening date. The Castello di Vezio above the village involves a steep climb and is best left for another trip.
The ferry to Bellagio takes about 15 to 20 minutes across the water. Check the time of the first and last boat and the price. On the other side, Bellagio has a flat lakeside promenade and steep streets behind it.
Where to stay. Albergo Milano is a small hotel in the village. Hotel Olivedo is on the lake-front. Check the distance from the station, rates and breakfast on the booking page.
Where to eat. Lake Como's speciality is lake fish, most often perch (persico) fried or served with risotto, and the village's restaurants serve it with local white wine. Ask what is on the menu and book a table.
Getting to the airport
For Milan Malpensa (MXP) or Linate (LIN), take the train back to Milano Centrale in about 64 minutes and continue by the airport link. Check the route on the day and allow extra time. A taxi from the lake is a costly alternative.