Route
Montevideo ──── road east, ~2 h ──── Punta Ballena ── José Ignacio ── Garzón
(cliffs) (lighthouse) (inland)
East of Punta del Este the coast changes. The condominiums and casinos give way to dunes, low scrub and long beaches, with a handful of fishing villages and estancias. José Ignacio, 35 km from Punta del Este, is a village of a few hundred people around a lighthouse. Garzón, inland, is a smaller village of low brick houses and dirt streets. In May the whole area is quiet, and a number of seasonal restaurants and hotels close, so this trip suits readers who want to do very little in a very plain landscape.
A hired car or a driver is the easiest way to link the places, because public transport thins out beyond Punta del Este. Take a coach from Montevideo's Tres Cruces terminal to Punta del Este, which takes about two hours, then hire a car or arrange a transfer. Check the current coach times and which hotels are open before you book.
May on the coast
May is autumn. Days are 13 to 18 °C, the wind is brisk, rain showers pass through and the sea is cold. Bring layers, a windproof jacket and sturdy shoes. The beaches are empty and the light is clear.
Nights one and two: Punta Ballena and José Ignacio
Punta Ballena sits on a headland west of Punta del Este. Its landmark is Casapueblo, a white, curving, cliffside building designed by the Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró as a home and workshop, now a museum and hotel. The visit involves a lot of steps and ramps, so go on the second day. The sunset from the terrace is its big draw.
José Ignacio has a lighthouse, a handful of restaurants and a long, flat beach. The recovery walk is the sand at low tide, firm and level, and the village lanes, which are unpaved. Choose a small hotel or posada in the village, and check that it is open in May. Rooms are not cheap, even in low season, but they are quiet.
Nights three and four: Garzón
Garzón is about 20 km inland from José Ignacio, a village of dirt roads, a plaza, an old general store and a few restaurants and inns. It is worth the drive on a clear day. The roads between the villages are paved but empty, and the countryside is open pasture and low hills. Book a room and a table in advance, since only a few places are open in the off season.
Eat grilled meat, fish and lamb. Uruguay's beef is a point of national pride, and the estancia-style restaurants cook it over open fires.
Getting home
Return to Montevideo by coach or car, about two hours from Punta del Este, and allow a full day before an international flight. Carrasco airport (MVD) is east of the city centre. Check road conditions and seasonal opening hours before you travel.