← Palermo Marathon·1 night

Cefalù: A Night Under the Rock

A seaside town under a limestone rock, with a Norman cathedral and a flat old town. A simple overnight by train.

Duration1 night
TransitDirect regional train from Palermo Centrale, about 40 to 54 minutes
DepartsPalermo

After the Palermo Marathon: Cefalù

The Route: Palermo Centrale → Cefalù → Palermo Centrale (or Palermo airport) Logistics: A direct regional train, about 40 to 54 minutes depending on the service, with around 19 trains a day. The fare was about €7 on the figures available. Marathon Month: November Duration: 1 night

Palermo Centrale ──(direct train, 40-54 mins)──> Cefalù station
                                                      │
                                       (10 min walk to the old town)

Cefalù is 70 km east of Palermo along the north coast, and the train follows the sea for most of the way. The town sits under La Rocca, a limestone crag about 270 m high, and the old centre is a small grid of lanes between the cathedral and the harbour. The Monday after the Palermo Marathon, with the lanes mostly empty and the sea an off-season grey, is a good time for it. Buy a ticket from the machines at Palermo Centrale or at trenitalia.com, and check the timetable on the day.

November in Cefalù: daytime temperatures are mild and the beach is empty. Rain is likely at some point, and the wind can be strong on the seafront. Some seasonal restaurants and guesthouses are shut, so book ahead.

Night One: Cefalù

The station is about 10 minutes on foot from the old town, and the walk is flat. The Norman cathedral, begun in the 1130s under Roger II, stands at the head of the main square. It has two square towers and a large Byzantine mosaic of Christ in the apse. Check the opening hours and the entry fee before you plan the visit. The cloister has an additional charge.

The old town is compact and the streets are narrow, with a few steps. The Lavatoio medievale, an old wash-house fed by a stream, is a short walk from the cathedral. The seafront promenade runs along the harbour wall and the beach, and it is flat and paved. The climb to La Rocca is steep and uneven, so skip it unless your legs have recovered; it is better the next time.

Where to stay. Hotel Kalura is on the coast just east of the town centre, with a beach below it. Check the opening dates in November, because some seaside hotels shut for the winter, and confirm the distance to the station and the old town before booking.

Where to eat. Fish and pasta with sea urchin or sardines are typical. Try pasta con le sarde, a Palermo dish of sardines, fennel and pine nuts, or a plate of grilled fish. Book a table for the evening, since few places open late in November.

Getting back

Take a direct train back to Palermo Centrale the next morning. If you have a flight from Palermo airport (PMO), check whether the airport rail link runs from Palermo Centrale and plan a margin for a late train. Taxis are available at the station.