After the Palermo Marathon: Mondello

The Route: Palermo → Mondello → Palermo Logistics: A city bus or taxi from the centre of Palermo, about 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic. Mondello itself is flat. Marathon Month: November Duration: Day trip

Palermo (Politeama area) ──(bus or taxi, 20-30 mins)──> Mondello
                                                           │
                                  beach promenade, flat, about 1.5 km

Mondello is the easy answer to a sore-legged Monday. It is a seafront district at the foot of Monte Pellegrino, about 11 km north-west of the centre, with a curved sandy bay between two headlands. The ground is flat the whole way, and the hardest decision is which café to sit in. The Politeama area is where the marathon starts and finishes, so a taxi or bus from the finish area puts you on the seafront without a change.

November in Mondello: the sea is too cold for most people to swim in and the beach clubs are shut or running at low tempo. Daytime temperatures are often mild, but the wind off the bay can be strong. The promenade is quiet, and many seasonal places are closed, so check before planning a particular lunch.

Getting there

City buses run from central Palermo to Mondello. Check the current route numbers and stops with AMAT at amat.pa.it, or ask your hotel. A taxi is straightforward and the fare is modest by northern European standards, but agree the price or confirm the meter before you set off. Traffic into Mondello is heavy on summer weekends and light on a Monday in November.

The seafront

Start at the centre of the bay, where the old wooden pier-style bathing establishment stands on stilts above the water. It was built in the early twentieth century in the Liberty style and gives the seafront its look. Walk the promenade along the beach in either direction. Most of it is paved and level, and benches face the water. At the northern end, the road continues towards the headland and Capo Gallo, a nature reserve; the paths there are rougher and are not a sensible choice after a marathon.

On a clear day Monte Pellegrino rises behind the bay as a pale limestone block, and the colours of the sea change from grey-green near the shore to a darker blue further out.

Eating

Mondello is known for seafood. Most places near the beach do grilled fish, spaghetti with clams, and fried calamari. Expect to pay more for a table with a sea view. A granita with a brioche is a Sicilian breakfast habit and works for a mid-afternoon snack as well.

Getting back

Take the bus or a taxi back to the centre. Taxis are easy to find around the main square, and the bus stops are close to the seafront. Allow for a slower journey at rush hour.