After the Parma Marathon: Modena
The Route: Parma → Modena → Bologna airport (BLQ) or back to Parma Logistics: Direct trains run about 21 times a day, and the fastest take about 27 minutes. The centre is flat and a short walk from the station. Marathon Month: October Duration: 1 night
Parma ──(direct train, 27-40 mins)──> Modena station
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(about 1.2 km walk to Piazza Grande)
Modena is 50 km south-east of Parma along the same railway line, and it has the same low, flat streets and long arcades. The Parma Marathon finishes in a park south of the old centre, and a train east on the Monday brings you to a city where nothing requires a climb. Check the timetable and fares at trenitalia.com or italotreno.it. A regional ticket is cheap.
October in Modena: cool mornings, sometimes foggy, and mild afternoons. Some of the market stalls and museums are shut on Mondays, so check.
Night One: Modena
From the station, the walk into the old town is flat and takes about 15 minutes. The centre is Piazza Grande, where the Romanesque cathedral, the Ghirlandina bell tower and the town hall stand. Together they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and they were built from the early twelfth century. The cathedral facade carries carved reliefs by the sculptor Wiligelmo. Check the opening hours before a Monday visit.
The Mercato Albinelli is a covered food market a few streets from the square, with stalls selling cheese, cured meats, bread and vegetables. Check the days, because Italian markets often close on one weekday afternoon. Traditional balsamic vinegar is made in the province, and some producers offer visits by appointment; book ahead and confirm the transport.
Where to stay. Phi Hotel Canalgrande is a historic hotel in the centre with a garden. Check the rate, the breakfast time and the walk to the station before booking, or look for a smaller guesthouse in the old town.
Where to eat. Modena is known for tortellini in brodo, gnocco fritto, a puffed fried bread served with cured meats, and zampone, a stuffed pig's trotter. Book a table for the evening, because the best places are small.
Getting onward
For the Bologna airport (BLQ), take a train to Bologna Centrale and continue by the airport shuttle; check the timetable. For Parma, take the direct train back in the opposite direction.