After the Primiero Dolomiti Marathon: Paneveggio and the Pale

The Route: Fiera di Primiero → San Martino di Castrozza (2 nights) → Paneveggio and Passo Rolle by day → Fiera di Primiero Logistics: Buses link Primiero, San Martino and Passo Rolle in the summer season, but frequencies are modest. Check Trentino Trasporti for the current timetable. A hire car makes the loop easier. Marathon Month: July Duration: 2 nights

Fiera di Primiero ──(bus or car)──> San Martino di Castrozza   (2 nights)
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                       day 1: village, meadows, optional cable car
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                       day 2: Passo Rolle ── Paneveggio forest
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                                  return to Fiera di Primiero

The Paneveggio forest lies on the other side of Passo Rolle from San Martino, and it is made almost entirely of red spruce, tall, straight and slow-growing in the cold. The local tradition is that violin makers, Stradivari among them, came here for resonant wood. No one can say that of any particular instrument, but the forest has carried the nickname "the forest of violins" for a long time, and the park's visitor centre tells the story.

The plan below is built around tired legs: a day of looking, a day of gentle walking, and a base that does not change.

July in the high Dolomites: the weather is the planner. Mornings are bright, afternoons can turn to storm, and a morning cable car that was running can close by noon. Keep both days flexible and carry a waterproof.

Night one: San Martino di Castrozza

Stay in the village, in a hotel on or near the main street where the bus stops. Check that your hotel is open in July and ask about breakfast times. Spend the first afternoon walking the meadow paths near the centre, and eat early. See the separate San Martino itinerary for the cable car and village detail.

Day two: Passo Rolle and the Paneveggio forest

Passo Rolle is a high pass above San Martino, at about 1,980 metres. Buses and cars go up the road, and the pass has huts, a view of the Pale from the east side and a flat meadow walk. Check the bus timetable, and decide on the day depending on the sky.

From the pass, the road descends towards Paneveggio. The park's visitor centre and the forest paths are on that side. Surfaces are generally easy, and you can pick a flat loop rather than a climb. Opening days and hours for the visitor centre vary, so confirm them before you go.

Night two

Return to San Martino for a second night, or if the weather has turned, pull the schedule forward and head back to Fiera. Rooms in the village can be scarce in the high season, so book both nights together.

What to eat

The valley's food is hearty. Polenta, venison, barley soup, cheeses from mountain dairies and fruit tarts all turn up. Ask the hut or restaurant what is local. Some places shut one evening a week.

Getting back