After the Prosecco Marathon: Conegliano

The Route: Vidor → Conegliano (1 night) → onward by train Logistics: The start area has no rail link of its own. Take a taxi or pre-arranged car to Conegliano, where the station connects to Treviso and Venice. Check the timetable for the next morning before you book the night. Marathon Month: December Duration: 1 night

Vidor ──(taxi or car, about 25-35 mins)──> Conegliano
                                               │
                    Via XX Settembre ── cathedral ── castle hill
                                               │
                                night in the old town, train next day

Conegliano is where the Prosecco story is formalised. In 1876 the town opened the first wine school in Italy, and it still trains winemakers today. It is also the home town of the painter Cima da Conegliano, whose altarpieces hang in churches across the Veneto, and the old town has the feel of a place that has had money for a long time and kept it quiet.

It is a town for walking at a low gear. The main street is flat, the castle hill is steep but short, and a taxi or a lift is easy to find.

December in Conegliano: damp mornings, a thin winter light, and an early dusk. Many restaurants are full at weekends. Christmas lights appear in the centre, and the cafés are warm.

Getting there

From Vidor, a taxi or hire car takes in the order of half an hour. Arrange this with your accommodation if you can. The Conegliano station is on the line between Venice and the north-east, with regular trains to Treviso and Venice, so book your onward journey in advance.

The old town

Via XX Settembre, the main street, is lined with arcades and painted facades of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The street is flat and pedestrian-friendly. Stop in a café, and walk slowly. The cathedral, with its frescoed Scuola dei Battuti next door, has opening hours that change, so check before you plan a visit.

The castle hill

A short climb leads to the castle at the top, with a view of the plain and, on a clear day, the Alps. The path is steep and paved. After a marathon, a taxi or a gentle zigzag is the sensible way up. The small museum inside has seasonal hours, so confirm them.

Where to stay

Choose a hotel within a few minutes' walk of the station or Via XX Settembre, and ask for a lift and a late check-out. Several small hotels and guesthouses serve the old town. Check winter opening, rates and breakfast times before you book.

Evening and wine

Many wine bars in Conegliano pour local sparkling wine by the glass, and several serve plates of cured meat and cheese. Ask for a still or lightly sparkling version as well, as the traditional local style is not always fully fizzy. Restaurants serve winter dishes such as polenta, radicchio and roast meat.

Getting back

Take the morning train to Treviso or Venice. Buy tickets in advance, and check the first service. If you have a flight from Venice or Treviso airport, work out the transfer the night before.