After the Ravenna Marathon: The Mosaics and Dante

The Route: Ravenna centre → San Vitale and Galla Placidia → Sant'Apollinare Nuovo → Dante's tomb → Ravenna centre Logistics: The historic centre is flat and compact, and most monuments are within ten minutes' walk of each other. Check opening hours and ticket arrangements on the day, since the monuments keep seasonal times and some sites close on certain days. Marathon Month: November Duration: Day trip

Piazza del Popolo ──> San Vitale + Galla Placidia ──> Neonian Baptistery
                                                              │
                      Sant'Apollinare Nuovo ──> Dante's tomb ──> San Francesco crypt

From 402 Ravenna was the capital of the Western Roman Empire, and it went on to serve a Gothic king and then a Byzantine province. Each rulership left buildings, and the buildings are covered in glass and stone tesserae in gold, green and a blue so deep it looks wet. Eight of those monuments are on the UNESCO list, and they are the reason to come.

The day after a marathon suits this city. Everything is on level paving, and the monuments are small and dark inside, which means you spend the day sitting under mosaics with your head tipped back. Your neck will complain more than your legs.

November in Ravenna: the days are cool, damp and often misty, and the daylight fades by late afternoon. Crowds are small. The monuments are lit, but low light inside some of them means they can be dim, so allow time for your eyes to adjust.

Getting around

Walk. If you have a bib medal or a race concession, ask at the ticket office whether it covers entry, because arrangements vary with the event. A combined ticket for several monuments has usually been available, and individual sites charge separately if you prefer a short list. Prices vary, so use any figure as a guide only.

San Vitale and the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia

The Basilica of San Vitale is octagonal inside, and its apse carries two panels showing the Emperor Justinian and the Empress Theodora with their courts, in glass tesserae. Next door, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia is a small cross-shaped chamber with a vault of gold stars on dark blue. Visitor numbers in the mausoleum are limited, and queues can form, so go early or check how entry is managed.

The Neonian Baptistery and the Archiepiscopal Museum

A few minutes away stands the Neonian Baptistery, with a dome of apostles circling a figure of Christ's baptism. The Archiepiscopal Museum and its chapel are nearby, with a small, bright mosaic chapel inside. Check the combined opening hours.

Sant'Apollinare Nuovo

A walk of ten minutes leads to Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, whose nave walls carry two long processions of figures in white, one of martyrs and one of virgins, heading towards the altar. It is free of stairs and quiet.

Dante's tomb and the crypt

Dante died in Ravenna in 1321, in exile, and is buried in a small neoclassical tomb near the Basilica of San Francesco. The area around it is known as the Zona del Silenzio, and it is. The crypt of San Francesco is flooded by groundwater and holds a layer of water in which fish swim. Access is by a viewing platform, and opening times vary, so check them.

The MAR

The city's art museum, the MAR, is a short walk from the finish area, and includes a mosaic collection. Check the days it closes.

Lunch

Try piadina, the flat bread of Romagna, filled with cured ham and soft cheese. Cappelletti in broth is a traditional dish, and the local wine is Sangiovese di Romagna. Several trattorias around the centre are open on a Monday, but check.

Getting back

Everything lies within walking distance of the station and the centre, so the day ends where it began. Take care on wet paving and cobbles after rain.