After the Reggio Emilia Marathon: The Historic Centre

The Route: Piazza Prampolini → Sala del Tricolore → Basilica della Ghiara → Piazza San Prospero → centre Logistics: The historic centre is flat and mostly pedestrianised, and sights are a few minutes' walk apart. Check museum opening days, because several close on Mondays. Marathon Month: December Duration: Day trip

Piazza Prampolini ──> Sala del Tricolore ──> Teatro Municipale
                                                    │
       Piazza San Prospero ──> Basilica della Ghiara ──> Palazzo dei Musei

On 7 January 1797, delegates of the Cispadane Republic met in a hall in Reggio Emilia and voted to adopt a green, white and red flag. It became the Italian flag, and the room, the Sala del Tricolore, is open to visitors in the town hall on Piazza Prampolini. That is why the marathon carries the name Città del Tricolore, and it is the best single reason to spend a morning in this city.

The centre is a loop of arcaded streets and squares laid out on a Roman road, the Via Emilia, which still runs straight through it. There are no hills and few stairs, so it is a day for slow walking and long lunches.

December in Reggio Emilia: days are cold, with fog on the plain and a pale sun when it lifts. Christmas lights are up in the centre, and cafés and bars fill with locals. Museums close for the holidays at some points, so check dates.

Getting around

Walk. The city centre can be crossed in twenty minutes. Taxis wait at the station and the squares if you need them. The central station is on the edge of the old town, a short walk from the main square.

Piazza Prampolini and the Sala del Tricolore

The square is the city's drawing room, with the cathedral on one side and the town hall on another. The Sala del Tricolore sits on the upper floor, and the small museum beside it tells the story of the flag. Opening hours vary, and entry has been free in the past, but check.

The Basilica della Ghiara

A ten-minute walk takes you to the Basilica della Ghiara, a seventeenth-century church built after a reported miracle. Its interior is covered in painted decoration by artists of the Emilian school, and the dome is richly frescoed. Hours vary and the church is closed in the early afternoon, so check.

Teatro Municipale and the squares

The Teatro Municipale Romolo Valli, an elegant nineteenth-century opera house, stands on Piazza Martiri del 7 Luglio. Walk through Piazza San Prospero, where a Saturday market has traditionally been held, and then down the arcaded main street, Corso Garibaldi.

Palazzo dei Musei

The Palazzo dei Musei holds the civic collections of the city, including archaeological and natural history sections. Check the opening days and winter schedule, as days vary and Monday closures are common.

Lunch

Parmigiano Reggiano is made in this province, and a shop or restaurant in the centre will serve it in several ages. The local specialities are cappelletti in broth, tortelli filled with greens and ricotta, and erbazzone, a savoury pie of greens and cheese. A glass of Lambrusco, the local sparkling red, is the usual accompaniment. Book on a weekend.

Getting back

If you are staying in the centre, walk back. The Mediopadana high-speed station is outside the old town, near the Calatrava bridges, and is a separate station from the central one, so check which you need for your train.