← Reggio Emilia Marathon·1 night

Parma: Ham, Cheese and a Compact Centre

A compact, flat city of a cathedral and baptistery, a theatre and a food culture built on ham and cheese, a short train ride up the Via Emilia.

Duration1 night
TransitRegional or high-speed train from Reggio Emilia, about 15 to 30 minutes; check the timetable
DepartsReggio Emilia

After the Reggio Emilia Marathon: Parma

The Route: Reggio Emilia → Parma (1 night) → home Logistics: Regional trains run along the Via Emilia between the two cities, and some high-speed services stop at the Mediopadana station. Journey times are short. Check which station you leave from, and the Sunday and Monday timetable. Marathon Month: December Duration: 1 night

Reggio Emilia ──(train, about 15-30 mins)──> Parma
                                                │
                    Piazza Duomo ── Baptistery ── Pilotta
                                                │
                              dinner, night, train home

Parma sits twenty-odd kilometres up the Via Emilia from Reggio, and it has the same Roman grid and arcaded streets, only with more money and a bigger reputation. The city is known for two foods, prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano, and for the composer Verdi, who was born in the province. The centre is flat and compact, and the sights cluster around two squares.

It is a city that rewards slow walking, and a night here gives a sore body a seated dinner and a bed in a quiet hotel.

December in Parma: the weather is damp and often foggy. The Christmas season brings lights and a market in the squares. Bars serve hot chocolate and Lambrusco. Pack a warm coat and a pair of shoes with grip for wet stone.

Getting there

From Reggio Emilia central station, regional trains run to Parma, taking in the order of 20 to 30 minutes. A faster option may exist from the Mediopadana station, but that is outside the town, so check the whole journey. Buy a ticket in advance, and validate it if the station requires it.

Piazza Duomo and the Baptistery

The cathedral and the octagonal Baptistery stand side by side on Piazza Duomo. The Baptistery is built of pink Verona marble and has a ceiling painted in concentric bands. Entry is ticketed, and hours vary by season. The cathedral has a dome frescoed by Correggio, and entry is free but opening hours differ, so check.

The Pilotta and the Teatro Regio

The Palazzo della Pilotta is a vast brick palace that houses the National Gallery, an archaeological museum and a library. The Farnese Theatre, a wooden Baroque theatre inside, is one of the sights. Check opening days. A few minutes' walk away is the Teatro Regio, one of Italy's best-known opera houses.

Where to stay

Pick a hotel in the centre near Piazza Garibaldi or Strada della Repubblica to cut down on walking. Check the rates, breakfast times and whether the hotel has a lift.

What to eat

A plate of prosciutto di Parma and a few pieces of Parmigiano Reggiano is the obvious start. Anolini in brodo, stuffed pasta in a clear broth, is a traditional winter dish. Torta fritta, a puffed fried bread served with cured meats, is another. Book dinner on a weekend.

Getting back

Trains back to Reggio Emilia are frequent, and Parma has onward connections to Milan and Bologna. If you plan an early train, pack the night before.