Rome Marathon·2 nights

After the Rome Marathon: Ostia Antica

Two nights at the ancient harbour city, with a direct taxi to Fiumicino Airport in 15 minutes. No re-entry to central Rome required.

Duration2 nights
Transit25 min by Roma-Lido commuter rail
DepartsRome Porta San Paolo (Piramide metro)

The Rome Marathon passes the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum on its circuit of the city. If you plan to walk the Forum properly the day after the race, you will discover within about fifteen minutes that the site involves significant uneven basalt paving, unexpected steps, and gradients engineered for dramatic effect. The Palatine Hill is, structurally, a hill.

The solution is Ostia Antica: Rome's ancient harbour city, 25 minutes southwest on the commuter rail from Porta San Paolo station (right at the Piramide metro stop, Line B). It is the largest and best-preserved Roman urban site outside Pompeii, it is flat, and it is almost always significantly less visited than the central Rome sites. In March, before the Easter rush, you may spend an hour on the main street without seeing another tourist.


Getting There

The Roma-Lido commuter rail line runs from Roma Porta San Paolo station to Ostia Antica station in 25 minutes. Trains run every 15 minutes. The fare is covered by a standard Rome metro ticket (€1.50). From Ostia Antica station, the archaeological park entrance is a five-minute flat walk across the pedestrian bridge over the Tiber.


Ostia Antica: The Site

Ostia was Rome's port city from approximately the 4th century BC until silting of the Tiber left it stranded inland in the 4th century AD. At its peak under Trajan and Hadrian it had a population of perhaps 50,000 and functioned as the logistical hub of the Mediterranean's most powerful empire.

The Decumanus Maximus - the main east-west street - runs dead straight for over a kilometre from the entrance gate to the forum, surfaced in large basalt blocks, worn smooth by two thousand years of successive traffic and now entirely level.

The Teatro di Ostia, the Piazzale delle Corporazioni (with its trading guild mosaics), and the Baths of Neptune are all at ground level and accessible without any significant climbing. The forum at the centre of the town - a colonnaded open space with the temple of Rome and Augustus at its southern end - is a place to sit on a stone for twenty minutes without any sense of urgency.

March at Ostia Antica: The site opens at 09:00, closes at 18:00 in spring (last entry 17:00). Entry is approximately €12. In March the site is accessible without summer queues.

Where to stay: The Borgo di Ostia Antica - the small medieval village immediately adjacent to the park entrance - has guesthouses and B&Bs within the old walls. Alternatively, the modern seaside resort of Ostia Lido (two stations further on the same rail line) gives access to the beach as well as the site.

Where to eat: In Ostia Lido, the seafront restaurants serve fresh Tyrrhenian fish. Ristorante Ostia on the Lungomare Amerigo Vespucci has been the reliable local choice for decades. The spaghetti alle vongole (with clams from the local coast) and the fritto misto are the relevant dishes.


Getting to the Airport

Rome Fiumicino Airport (FCO) is approximately 15 minutes from Ostia Antica by taxi (around €20) or by the local Cotral bus service from Ostia Lido. This proximity is the specific logistical advantage: you spend two nights in a flat, interesting environment and then exit directly to the main international hub without re-entering central Rome.