← Verdi Marathon·2 nights

Bologna: Two Nights Under the Porticoes

A university city of covered arcades, a huge main square and a serious food scene, reached by an easy train along the Via Emilia.

Duration2 nights
TransitTrain via Fidenza or Parma, about 1 hr to 1 hr 30 min in total
DepartsSalsomaggiore Terme

After the Verdi Marathon: Two Nights in Bologna

The Route: Salsomaggiore Terme → Fidenza or Parma → Bologna Centrale (2 nights) → Bologna Airport (BLQ) Logistics: Branch line to Fidenza, then a regional or fast train to Bologna. The centre is flat and largely covered. Marathon Month: February Duration: 2 nights

Salsomaggiore Terme ──(branch line)──> Fidenza ──(regional or fast train ~1 hr)──> Bologna Centrale
                                                                                       │
                                Bologna Airport (BLQ) <──(shuttle bus / taxi)────────────┘

Bologna is a good second stop after Parma, because the porticoes keep the rain off and the streets are flat. From Salsomaggiore the trip takes about an hour and a half in total, with a change at Fidenza or Parma. Fast trains from Parma are quicker than regional ones, and fares vary. Check times and prices at trenitalia.com or italotreno.it.

February in Bologna. Winter is cold and damp, with fog on some mornings and occasional frost. The arcades make walking comfortable in rain. In most years the days are grey and mild enough for slow walks, though conditions vary.

Nights One and Two: The Old Centre

The centre is dense with covered arcades, called porticoes, which run for kilometres. They are the city's character, and a walk under them keeps you dry. Piazza Maggiore is the main square, with the great unfinished facade of the Basilica of San Petronio on one side and the Fountain of Neptune close by. Check opening times for the basilica.

The Two Towers, the Asinelli and the Garisenda, lean over the street at the edge of the old centre. The Asinelli can be climbed by about 500 steps, and that is the wrong thing to do on marathon legs. Look at them from the street. The long arcaded walk to the Sanctuary of San Luca on the hill is also a climb and best left for another trip.

The Quadrilatero, the old market quarter beside the square, is the place for browsing cheese, cured meat and fresh pasta shops. Many places close on Sundays or Mondays, so check hours.

Where to stay: Hotel Touring is a central hotel within a short walk of the main square. Hotel Corona d'Oro is also in the old centre. Check rates and cancellation terms, because hotel prices in Bologna rise when trade fairs are on.

Where to eat: The local dishes are tagliatelle with ragù, tortellini in broth and mortadella. Book dinner ahead and check opening days, since many trattorie close one day a week.

Day Two and Return

Spend a second day on the market or a museum, then take the airport shuttle or a taxi to Bologna Airport (BLQ) for a UK flight. Check the shuttle times and the transfer time before relying on them. For an early flight, stay the last night near the station.