← Verdi Marathon·Day trip

The Berzieri Baths: A Recovery Day in Salsomaggiore

A 1920s thermal palace with ceramic towers and a double staircase, in the town where the marathon starts, for a first day of doing very little.

DurationDay trip
TransitOn foot, a short walk from the start area
DepartsSalsomaggiore Terme

After the Verdi Marathon: A Recovery Day in Salsomaggiore

The Route: Salsomaggiore Terme (on foot) Logistics: No transport needed if you are staying in town. The spa building is in the centre. Marathon Month: February Duration: Day trip

Your hotel ──(walk, a few minutes)──> Palazzo delle Terme Berzieri ──> Town centre

The Verdi Marathon finishes in Busseto and a bus takes you back to Salsomaggiore, where you started. On Monday you can stay put. The town was built around thermal water, and its best-known building is a spa palace with turrets, ceramic pilasters and an entrance hall that borrows freely from Asian temples.

February in Salsomaggiore. February in the hills above the Po plain is cold, with fog in the valley and occasional frost. A warm bath is a good answer to that. Streets are quiet in winter. In most years the days are cool and damp, though conditions vary, so bring a coat for the walk between buildings.

The Palace

The Palazzo delle Terme Berzieri was completed in 1921 and formally opened on 27 May 1923. The decoration is by the artist Galileo Chini, who designed the ceramics, windows and furnishings, and the exterior has two turret-like towers, painted pilasters and details taken from Asian architecture. Inside, an entrance atrium of marble and fresco leads to a double staircase, with Chini's paintings on either side. Hours for visits to the building and for the spa vary, so check the current operator's website before going. The building is a short, flat walk from most hotels.

The spa operator offers day access and treatments. Prices and opening days change, and some treatments need booking, so check the operator's site for the current terms. Bring a swimsuit and flip-flops if you plan to use the pools, and ask about towel hire. A warm soak after a marathon suits sore quadriceps, but mind your own limits: stay out of very hot water if you feel dehydrated, and drink water.

The Town

Outside the palace the town is a plain, tidy spa resort of hotels, arcades and gardens, with a walkable flat centre. A slow loop takes about 45 minutes. It is a place for coffee, a newspaper and a long lunch, not for sightseeing. Check opening days, because many small places close on Mondays.

Eating

Emilia is one of the best-fed corners of Italy, and a Salsomaggiore menu will usually include cured pork, stuffed pasta and cheese from the plain. Ask your hotel for a trattoria in town that serves tortelli, the filled pasta of the region, and check that it is open on a Monday.

The Rest of the Week

If the legs recover, a taxi or bus to Busseto on Tuesday puts you in Verdi's town on a day when the museums are open. Check the Busseto itinerary for opening days.