After the San Francesco Marathon: Assisi

The Route: Santa Maria degli Angeli → Assisi (1 night) → Santa Maria degli Angeli Logistics: A local bus runs from the lower town to the hill, with stops at the town gates. A taxi is the fallback. Check the bus timetable and the last return, and note that car access to the old town is limited. Marathon Month: November Duration: 1 night

Santa Maria degli Angeli ──(bus or taxi, about 15-25 mins)──> Assisi
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          Basilica of San Francesco ── Piazza del Comune ── Santa Chiara
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                                       evening and night in the old town

Assisi is built of a pale pink and white limestone quarried from Monte Subasio, the mountain behind it, and in the evening light the whole town turns a soft rose colour. The streets climb the hillside in terraces, and the basilica of San Francesco stands at the far end on a stone platform, with its tall arches visible for kilometres across the plain.

The streets are steep, and this is the day-two problem for the quads. The way to handle it is to take the bus to the top, walk the long street downhill in stages and sit often.

November in Assisi: the town is quiet. Fog fills the valley below and the old town stands above it. The days are short, and the evenings are cold. Some hotels and restaurants close for a period in late autumn or winter, so check.

Getting there

From the station area in Santa Maria degli Angeli, a local bus climbs to the hill town in the order of 15 to 25 minutes. Buy a ticket in advance if you can, and check the last return. A taxi is a sound alternative.

The Basilica of San Francesco

The basilica, with its upper and lower churches, is on the UNESCO list. The upper church carries a cycle of frescoes of the life of Francis, traditionally attributed to Giotto, though scholars have debated this attribution. The lower church is darker, with a tomb crypt. Check the opening hours, the dress code and the rules on silence.

Piazza del Comune and Santa Chiara

The town's central square has a Roman temple, the Temple of Minerva, now a church, with a classical front of columns. A short walk leads to the Basilica of Santa Chiara, with a pink-and-white striped facade. The streets between are cobbled, with steps. Take them slowly.

The Rocca Maggiore

A fortress sits at the top of the town, reached by a steep climb through the lanes. It gives a view over the valley. After a marathon, skip the climb or go by taxi.

Where to stay

Choose a hotel in the old town with a lift and a position close to a bus stop. Check opening dates for November, and breakfast times. Hotels in the lower town are flat but remove the evening in the hill town.

Eating

Assisi's restaurants serve strangozzi, lentils, roast meats and, in autumn, truffle dishes. The first pressing of the olive oil harvest, the olio nuovo, appears in November. Book dinner on a weekend.

Getting back

Take the bus or a taxi back down to Santa Maria degli Angeli. Check the last service before you settle into a long dinner.

Assisi: A Night on the Hill