After the San Francesco Marathon: Spello and Foligno

The Route: Santa Maria degli Angeli → Spello (1 night) → Foligno (1 night) → home Logistics: The towns are on the same regional rail line, with stations a few minutes apart. Check the timetable, since service gaps appear on Sundays and holidays. In Spello the station sits below the village, so plan a taxi or a short uphill walk. Marathon Month: November Duration: 2 nights

Santa Maria degli Angeli ──(train, about 10 mins)──> Spello (night 1)
                                                         │
                        Santa Maria Maggiore ── Pinturicchio frescoes
                                                         │
                                  Spello ──(train)──> Foligno (night 2)

Spello is a village of pink stone climbing a slope, and its lanes are known for the pots of flowers set out in front of every door. A fresco cycle by Pinturicchio, painted at the start of the sixteenth century, lies in the Baglioni Chapel of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. The village is smaller than Assisi, quieter and a little less steep.

Foligno, down the line, is a working town with a bigger station, and its centre is flat. The two together give one night of a hill village and one night of a flat town, which is a kind trade for tired legs.

November in Spello and Foligno: it is the olive harvest, and the new oil is pressed in local mills. The days are cool and misty, and the hills around Spello are dark green. Many restaurants serve soups and roast meats. A few places close for a winter break.

Getting there

A regional train runs from Santa Maria degli Angeli, the Assisi station, to Spello in about ten minutes. Buy a ticket in advance, and check Sunday service. A taxi takes you from the Spello station to the village.

Night one: Spello

Walk the main lane, which is steep in places, and take the Baglioni Chapel in the church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Check the opening hours, which vary. A small gate at the top of the village has a view over the plain to Assisi. Stay in a small hotel in the old town and check the stairs.

In November, ask about olive oil tastings, since local mills and shops may offer a taste of the new pressing. Booking is wise.

Night two: Foligno

A short train takes you to Foligno. The Palazzo Trinci, a palace in the centre with a gallery of painted rooms, is the main sight, with seasonal hours. The cathedral stands on the main square. The streets are flat, with cafés and a regular market.

Where to stay

In both towns, pick a hotel close to the main street and the station, and ask about a lift. Check winter opening and breakfast times. Rooms can be limited on weekends.

What to eat

Umbrian cooking uses lentils, wild boar, truffles and strangozzi. Ask for the olio nuovo on bread. Sagrantino, a strong red wine from Montefalco, is grown a short distance away. Book on weekends.

Getting back

Foligno is a rail junction with regular trains to Perugia, Rome and the Adriatic coast. Check your onward connection and timetable.