The Stockholm archipelago contains 30,000 islands. Vaxholm is the first town - 90 minutes by ferry from central Stockholm, on an island that commands the main sea approach to the capital. The Vaxholm Fortress (built from 1544, active until 1993) sits on a separate islet facing the town across a narrow channel. The archipelago beyond Vaxholm requires further ferries; two nights here gives enough time to go further out, or to simply sit on the rocks in the June light.
Getting There
Waxholmsbolaget ferry from Strömkajen (the pier below the Grand Hôtel) to Vaxholm: approximately 90 minutes through the inner archipelago. Ferries run several times daily in June. Buy tickets at the pier or on the Waxholmsbolaget app.
The boat route is the correct approach: the islands become smaller and more numerous as you move out, and the water between them narrows. By the time Vaxholm appears, you are in a recognisably different landscape from the city.
Vaxholm
Vaxholm is a town of 5,500 on Vaxön island. The main street and harbour are flat at sea level; the island is small enough to walk around in two hours.
Vaxholm Fortress (Vaxholms fästning, entry approximately SEK 120/€11, accessible by small boat from the town pier): the island fortress built by Gustav Vasa in 1544 to defend the sea approach to Stockholm. The current fortifications date mainly from the 19th century. The fortress is a military museum inside; the external walls and the view back to Vaxholm town across the channel are the primary draw. The small ferry from the town pier to the fortress takes 5 minutes.
The town clapboard houses: Vaxholm's 19th-century summer houses - the painted wooden buildings (villor) of the Swedish summer house tradition - are concentrated on the southern part of the island. The colours (red, yellow, cream, with white trim) are characteristic of the Swedish archipelago aesthetic.
The Harbour: Vaxholm Harbour has the classic archipelago function: ferry hub, boat services to the outer islands, fish market on the quay. The Hembygdsgård (local heritage museum, free) has the fishing and seafaring history of the archipelago.
Beyond Vaxholm
Day Two from Vaxholm: Take a Waxholmsbolaget ferry to a further island. Options:
- Grinda: 30 minutes from Vaxholm, a larger island with walking trails and summer restaurant accommodation
- Sandhamn: 2.5 hours from Vaxholm, on the outer edge of the archipelago - the sailing club, the simple restaurants, and the open sea on the eastern shore
- Norrhamn/Ingmarsö: quieter inner islands, accessible by the island ferries
June in the outer archipelago: the light at 21:00 is flat and specific. Bring sun protection (the water reflects everything) and a layer (the sea wind is cold even in June).
Uppsala (Nights Three and Four)
From Vaxholm, return by ferry to Stockholm and take the SJ or SL Pendeltag to Uppsala (38-45 minutes from Stockholm Central).
Uppsala: the cathedral with the tombs of Gustavus Vasa and Carl Linnaeus, the Linnaeus Garden, the Gustavianum anatomical theatre. See the Uppsala Day Trip itinerary for full detail.
Uppsala for two nights gives:
- Evening One: cathedral and old town
- Day Two: Linnaeus Garden (morning), Gustavianum (afternoon)
- Day Three: Gamla Uppsala (3 km north, bus 2) - the royal burial mounds of pre-Christian Sweden, the first church, the museum. Then return to Stockholm for the flight.
Where to Stay in Vaxholm
Waxholms Hotell on the harbour (built 1902): the archipelago hotel, directly on the water. The restaurant downstairs serves archipelago fish. The hotel is full in June; book well in advance.
Where to Eat in Vaxholm
Waxholms Hotell Restaurant: grilled fish and local shellfish, harbour terrace in June. Hamnen Fish Bar on the quay: simpler, cheaper, the smoked salmon sandwich on the pier is the right lunch. Hamnkrogen at the harbour: outdoor seating in June, the standard archipelago summer restaurant formula.
Practical Notes
- Vaxholm is 32 km northeast of Stockholm by boat.
- June Waxholmsbolaget timetables: waxholmsbolaget.se - schedules change with the season.
- Exit from Uppsala: Arlanda Express from Uppsala Central to Arlanda Airport runs direct (approximately 20 minutes). This makes Uppsala the best exit point if flying from Arlanda.
- SL travel cards work on Pendeltag trains within the SL zone; Waxholmsbolaget ferries require a separate ticket.