After the Szczecin Night Marathon: Świnoujście

The Route: Szczecin → Świnoujście → Szczecin Logistics: Train out, one night, train back. Short walks in town; the beach is a few minutes from the centre. Marathon Month: Summer Duration: 1 night

Szczecin Główny ──(train, about 1 hr 30 min)──> Świnoujście (lighthouse, forts, beach, Park Zdrojowy)
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The marathon is over by dawn on Sunday, and by Monday most runners can manage a train. Świnoujście is at the end of the line, about an hour and a half from Szczecin Główny on Polregio and PKP Intercity services. It is a border town, split across islands, with a ferry between Uznam and Wolin that locals use the way Londoners use the Tube. The Baltic here is wide, grey-green and shallow, and the beach runs for about 10 km.

Summer in Świnoujście: warm days, cold water and sea wind that arrives without warning. The beach is a Blue Flag one and busy from midday. Walk it early.

Night one: the beach and the lighthouse

Start with the beach, because it asks the least of your legs. The sand is flat and the promenade behind it is level, so a long, slow walk is easy on tired muscles. Take your shoes off if the sand is firm near the water.

The lighthouse stands about 65 m tall and was lit in 1857. A viewing terrace at the top gives a view across the strait and the town. One source mentions over 300 steps, so a runner with sore quads should think hard before committing. If you climb, go slowly and rest on the landings.

Park Zdrojowy, the spa park laid out by Lenné, is a cooler, shadier option in the afternoon, with old trees and flat paths. Baltic Park Molo, an aquapark, is the place for a sit-down when the wind drops and the sun is too much.

Day two: the forts

Fort Anioła has a rotunda, a Viking Hall, a Navigation Hall and an amber mine. It is an odd mix, which is part of the charm. Fort Gerharda houses the Coastal Defence Museum. Both are on the Świnoujście side and both involve stairs and uneven floors, so choose one for the morning and keep the other for another visit. Check opening hours and prices before you set out, since they vary by season.

The ferry between Uznam and Wolin crosses the Świna. Ask locally whether it is free on the day you travel, because sources disagree.

Where to stay

Choose a hotel near the Park Zdrojowy or the promenade, so the walk to the sea is short and flat. Check availability and cancellation terms before booking, because summer weekends fill early.

Eating

Fish is the local order, and smoked fish is sold from stalls near the harbour. A paper tray of it eaten on a bench is a very good lunch and a very poor idea if you are wearing white.

Getting back