After the Taupō Marathon: Tongariro and Whakapapa
The Route: Taupō → Turangi → Whakapapa village → Taupō or Auckland Logistics: About 1 hour 30 minutes by road. The Desert Road on State Highway 1 can close in snow, and chains may be required on mountain roads in winter, so check conditions with the NZ Transport Agency before leaving and carry chains if the forecast is poor. Marathon Month: August Duration: 1 night
Taupō ──(about 45 mins on SH1)──> Turangi ──(about 45 mins on SH47)──> Whakapapa Village
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Taupō <──(about 1 hr 30 mins by road)─────────────────────────────────────────┘
The Taupō Marathon is run on a Saturday in early August, and the mountains to the south are in the middle of the ski season. It is a different sort of recovery weekend from the lake: cold, bright and mostly spent sitting down with a view.
August on the mountain: deep winter. The ski areas on Mount Ruapehu, including Whakapapa, are normally open at this time of year, depending on snow, and the village sits above the bush line in a cold, exposed setting. Snow, ice and cloud can arrive within hours. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a winter mountaineering route in August, needs specialist gear and skills, and is not an easy post-marathon walk. Do not treat any summer trail as open.
Night One: Whakapapa Village
The road to Whakapapa climbs gradually through forest and open country, and the village sits at about 1,100 metres. Chateau Tongariro, a large historic hotel built in the 1920s, dominates the village and has lounges, a bar and a restaurant with mountain views, so most of the day can be spent in a warm chair. Check the current rates and book early in ski season.
For gentle outdoor time, the short walks close to the village on sealed or compacted paths take 15 to 30 minutes and have viewpoints on clear days, but snow and ice can make them slippery, so check the condition of each path at the visitor centre. The Department of Conservation visitor centre in the village gives current track and weather information and has an exhibition that is worth a slow look.
If you want to see the snow, take the lift at the ski area, and check whether scenic lift rides are running and what they cost. Skiing after a marathon is a decision for your quadriceps, and a beginner lesson is safer than a steep run.
For a bed, Chateau Tongariro is the obvious choice, and there are lodges and holiday accommodation in the village and at Ohakune, on the southern side of the mountain. For a meal, the dining room at Chateau Tongariro serves a set menu and a bar meal, and check the winter hours. Ohakune, about 30 minutes from Whakapapa, has cafés and pubs if you want a wider choice.
If the Weather Closes In
Mountain weather in August changes quickly. If the cloud is down, spend the day in the Chateau Tongariro lounges, or at the visitor centre. The Department of Conservation exhibits explain the volcanic history of the area, including the three volcanoes of Tongariro National Park, and the building is warm and level. Keep an eye on the Desert Road forecast, because snow and ice can close the highway with little notice, and a delayed return means a longer detour.
Pack for the cold even if the forecast is kind. A hat, gloves and a waterproof shell are cheap insurance at 1,100 metres, and the wind at the village can be far sharper than in Taupō. Fill the fuel tank before you leave the lakeside town, since petrol stations on the mountain roads are few and far between.
Getting Home
Taupō is about 1 hour 30 minutes back by road, and Auckland is about four hours. Check the state of the Desert Road before you set off, because a closure can add a long detour. Return the hire car with time to spare, and carry warm clothing in the boot.