After the Venice Marathon: Two Nights in Verona
The Route: Venezia Santa Lucia → Verona Porta Nuova (2 nights) → Venice → Marco Polo Airport (VCE) Logistics: Direct trains all day. Verona's old centre is compact, with a short walk from the station. Marathon Month: October Duration: 2 nights
Venezia Santa Lucia ──(train ~1 hr 10 - 2 hr)──> Verona Porta Nuova ──(walk or bus)──> Piazza Bra
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Marco Polo Airport (VCE) <──(bus / boat)── Venice <──(train)──┘
Verona is the city to choose if you want a proper change of scene. A fast train from Venezia Santa Lucia takes roughly an hour and ten minutes, and slower regional services take about two hours, with trains through the day. Fares range from modest for regional trains to higher for fast ones, so check times and prices at trenitalia.com or italotreno.it, and book fast trains ahead for the lowest price.
October in Verona. Autumn on the Adige is cool, often misty in the morning and mild by midday. The stone streets are slick when wet, so bring shoes with grip. In most years the days are comfortable for walking, though conditions vary.
Nights One and Two: The Old Centre
The Arena, a Roman amphitheatre from the 1st century, stands on Piazza Bra at the edge of the old town and is among the best-preserved in Italy. The summer opera season has ended by October, but the monument can usually be visited by day. Check the opening times and the ticket price at the official site before going. The seating is stone and steep, so decide how much of it your legs will take.
From Piazza Bra, Via Mazzini, a pedestrian shopping street, leads to Piazza delle Erbe, the old market square, where stalls and café tables share the space under the Lamberti tower. A lift runs up the tower, and its view over the roofs is the sensible option for tired legs. The courtyard of the Casa di Giulietta, the so-called house of Juliet, is crowded and the connection with the Shakespeare story is a tourist invention, but it is a short walk and free to enter the courtyard.
The Adige bends round the old town. Ponte Pietra, the Roman bridge, is the best-looking crossing, and the castle bridge near Castelvecchio is another. A slow loop by the river is flat and takes under an hour.
Where to stay: Hotel Accademia is in the old centre, within walking distance of the main squares. Hotel Giulietta e Romeo is a smaller hotel close to the Arena. Check rates and cancellation terms.
Where to eat: Verona cooking leans on rice and meat. Ask for risotto made with Amarone, the local red wine, and for pastissada de caval, a slow-cooked stew of horse meat that is a regional tradition. The wine bars around Piazza delle Erbe and the side streets serve cured meats and local reds. Book dinner ahead at weekends and check opening days.
Getting Back
Take the train back to Venice and, for a UK flight, continue to Marco Polo Airport by bus or boat. Check times before relying on them. For an early flight, spend the last night in Mestre or near the airport.