After the Zürich Marathon: Chur to Tirano by Bernina Express
The Route: Zürich → Chur → Tirano → Chur → Zürich Airport Logistics: Mainline train from Zürich HB to Chur, then the Rhaetian Railway's reserved Bernina Express. The mountain crossing is done seated. Marathon Month: April Duration: 3 nights
Zürich HB ──(train to Chur)──> Chur ──(Bernina Express, seat reservation required)──> Tirano
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Zürich Airport (ZRH) ◄──(train via Zürich HB)◄──(Rhaetian Railway back to Chur)◄────────┘
The Zürich Marathon finishes at Sechseläutenplatz on a Sunday in April. This trip uses the days that follow for a railway journey that asks nothing of the legs: the line from Chur to Tirano crosses the Albula and Bernina passes and was listed by UNESCO in July 2008. Seats are reserved and the carriages have large windows, so the work is done by the train.
April in the Grisons: the winter timetable on the Rhaetian Railway normally still applies until late in the month, which means fewer trains than in summer. Snow often lies at altitude well into spring, and the high section near the Bernina Pass can look entirely wintry while Tirano, far lower on the Italian side, is mild. Check frequencies and seat availability on rhb.ch before committing, and do not assume the summer pattern.
Night one: Chur
Trains run from Zürich HB to Chur through the day. Check the journey time and fare on sbb.ch, and break the journey here: Chur is the Rhaetian Railway's hub, and it is easier to join the Bernina Express fresh the next morning than to rush from Zürich on the same day. The old town is compact and largely pedestrianised, with cobbles that suit slow walking more than a stroll with luggage. Keep luggage at the hotel and pick an area close to the station or inside the old town. Compare rates on a booking site, and ask any hotel about luggage storage before the early start.
For dinner, ask for Bündner specialities such as capuns, pizokel or barley soup, which are the local dishes of the canton and sit well after a hard weekend.
Night two: Tirano
The Bernina Express runs from Chur to Tirano, and a seat reservation is required on the train. Book as far ahead as the reservation system allows, because the panoramic cars are popular and the winter timetable offers fewer departures. The route climbs through the Albula valley, crossing the Landwasser Viaduct, which is 65 metres high with a main span of 142 metres, then winds up to the Bernina Pass, with its high point at Ospizio Bernina around 2,250 metres. From there it descends past Alp Grüm and Lago Bianco to Poschiavo and Brusio, where the railway loops on a spiral viaduct, and ends at Tirano, across the Italian border. A runner who wants only the Swiss scenery can also ride to Poschiavo, but the full run to Tirano makes the day complete. The journey takes most of the day, so bring food and water.
Tirano is an Italian valley town with a compact centre and a pilgrimage church, the Santuario della Madonna di Tirano, a short flat walk from the station. Hotel choice is wide. Stay near the station, since the return departure and the luggage both favour it.
For dinner, pizzoccheri, the buckwheat pasta of the Valtellina, is the local order, and bresaola from the same valley is the cured meat.
Night three: Tirano
Use the second Tirano day as a rest day. The sanctuary, the old streets and a slow lunch cover it. Italian restaurants keep their own hours, so check before relying on a particular table.
Getting home
On the departure day, take the Rhaetian Railway back from Tirano to Chur, again on a reserved seat, then a mainline train to Zürich HB and the airport line to Zürich Airport (ZRH). The day is long, so a morning flight on the same date is not realistic. Book the flight for the evening, or take a night in Zürich first if the schedule is tight. Check connection times on rhb.ch and sbb.ch and leave a generous buffer between the last train and the check-in desk.