← Maratón de Castellón·2 nights

Morella: A Walled Town in Truffle Season

A medieval hill town inside two kilometres of walls at about 1,000 metres in the Els Ports mountains, visited in black-truffle season when the kitchens are at their best.

Duration2 nights
TransitAutos Mediterráneo bus, about 2 hours from Castelló de la Plana (weekdays)
DepartsCastelló de la Plana

After the Maratón de Castellón: Morella

The Route: Castelló de la Plana → Morella → Castelló de la Plana → Valencia Airport Logistics: Weekday bus inland to Morella, two nights, then back to Castelló by bus and on to Valencia by train for the flight home. No trains reach Morella. Marathon Month: February Duration: 2 nights

Castelló de la Plana ──(about 2 hrs bus via Sant Mateu)──> Morella (2 nights)
                                                               │
Valencia Airport (VLC) ◄──(1 hr Renfe + metro)── Castelló ◄──(about 2 hrs bus)──┘

The Maratón de Castellón is run at sea level. Morella sits about 1,000 metres higher, on a conical hill in the Els Ports mountains of the northern Castelló interior, its houses stacked below a castle on the summit and ringed by a complete circuit of medieval walls. It is the most striking town in the province and the least forgiving on sore legs, which is why it works best as the second part of a longer trip, two or three days after the race.

February in Morella is winter. Days are cold and bright, often only a few degrees above freezing at night, and snow falls on the town some winters. Pack a proper coat. The reward is the black truffle. Els Ports is one of Spain's main truffle regions, the season runs through the coldest months, and in February Morella's restaurants put truffle into everything from scrambled eggs to desserts.

The bus is run by Autos Mediterráneo from Castelló's bus station, beside the railway station and Parque Ribalta. It runs Monday to Friday only, with departures at 10:15 and 15:30, stopping at Sant Mateu and reaching Morella at 12:20 and 17:40. There is no weekend service, so the Monday morning bus after a Sunday race is the natural choice. Check the timetable with the operator before travelling.

Night One: Inside the walls

The bus stops outside the walls at the Porta de Sant Mateu. The town is built on a slope, and every route to the upper streets involves climbing. The exception is the main street, Blasco de Alagón, which runs along the hillside under stone arcades. It is roughly level, sheltered from rain and wind, and lined with shops selling cheese, cured meats and truffles. Walk its length slowly on the first afternoon.

The Basílica de Santa María la Mayor, a Gothic church in the upper part of town, has a carved stone staircase leading up to the choir and a large Baroque organ. Reaching it means a short climb through the lanes. Outside the walls, below the town, the arches of the Gothic aqueduct of Santa Llúcia cross the valley and can be seen from the Porta de Sant Mateu without walking down.

Where to stay: Hotel Cardenal Ram is in a sixteenth-century palace on the main street, which puts the arcades and restaurants at the door and avoids extra climbing. Hotel del Pastor, a smaller hotel inside the walls, is another central choice. Ask for a room that does not need extra flights of stairs.

Where to eat: Restaurante Vinatea, under the arcades of the main street, cooks the mountain food of Els Ports, lamb, wild mushrooms and truffle in season. Book ahead in truffle season.

Night Two: The castle, if the legs agree

Morella's castle crowns the rock above the town. It was fought over from the Moorish period to the Carlist Wars of the nineteenth century, and the view from the top takes in the whole of Els Ports. The climb from the town is steep, on uneven paths and steps, and takes 20 to 30 minutes at a careful pace. Two days after a marathon many runners will manage it slowly; some will not. There is no lift and no alternative route. If the stairs at the hotel still hurt, look at the castle from below and spend the day on the level walk along the arcades and the section of wall walk near the gates.

For lunch or dinner, try croquetas morellanas, Morella's own croquettes, and flaons, small pastries filled with fresh cheese and almonds, sold in the town's bakeries.

Where to eat: Casa Roque, in the old town, is a long-standing family restaurant known for local dishes and game, and another good choice for a truffle menu.

Getting Home

Take the weekday Autos Mediterráneo bus back down to Castelló, then a Renfe train to Valencia, about an hour, and Metro lines 3 or 5 to Valencia Airport (VLC), about 25 minutes from the centre. Allow the best part of five hours door to door. Castellón Airport (CDT) is closer to Castelló but has fewer flights. A hire car collected in Castelló cuts the Morella leg to around 90 minutes each way and gives more flexibility.