After the Crete Marathon: Kissamos and Falassarna

The Route: Chania → Kissamos → Falassarna → Chania Airport Logistics: Hire car or taxi for the drive west from Chania, about an hour to an hour and a half depending on the road and the stops. The coach to Kissamos is an option, but Falassarna itself needs a car. Marathon Month: April Duration: 2 nights

Chania ──(about 1 hr to 1 hr 30 by car)──> Kissamos ──(short drive)──> Falassarna
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   └────────────────(about 1 hr by car)───────────────────────────────┘
          Chania Airport (CHQ)

The Crete Marathon finishes in Chania's stadium on a Sunday morning in April. The west of the island is quieter than the north coast, and the road to it is the one the race runs along for its first half, so some of the scenery will look familiar from a different angle.

April on the west coast. The sea is still cold in April, and the beach cafés and many of the seasonal hotels open late. Wind is common on this coast, so a jacket is useful even on a bright day. Daytime temperatures are usually around 20°C. Do not plan on swimming. Plan on walking, long lunches and a good deal of sitting down.

Hire a car for this trip, or arrange a taxi. A car is the only sensible way to reach Falassarna from Kissamos, and it makes the Chania airport return simple. If you prefer not to drive on tired legs, ask your hotel about a transfer on the day. The road west from Chania follows the coast for much of the way, with the Rodopou and Gramvousa headlands to the north.

Nights one and two: Kissamos

Kissamos is the working harbour town of the west, and the ferry port for the boats to Gythio and Kythira. It is a base for ordinary life rather than a resort in April: the waterfront is flat, the promenade runs for a kilometre or more, and a short walk from the harbour covers most of the town. The Archaeological Museum of Kissamos, in a former Ottoman building near the centre, holds finds from the surrounding area, including mosaics and sculpture from Roman Kissamos. Check the opening days before going, as small Greek museums often close on one weekday.

A flat waterfront walk is the best recovery asset here. The paved path along the harbour front is level, with benches and cafés at frequent intervals, and the full length is roughly a kilometre. It takes 20 to 30 minutes at post-marathon speed, rather more if the legs advise stopping.

Where to stay

Pick a hotel on the waterfront or a short walk from it, and ask about parking if you have the hire car. Rooms with a balcony facing the bay are usually available in April. Book ahead if you want a specific property, since only some places are open this early.

Where to eat

Kissamos has fish tavernas along the harbour and plainer tavernas in the streets behind. Order the local cheeses, the lamb, and whatever greens are in season. Ask for the fish by weight.

Falassarna

Falassarna is about 15 km west of Kissamos, and the road climbs over a ridge before dropping to the sea. The beach is long, with pale sand, and the coast faces west. Sunset here has a reputation, and in April the sun sets earlier than in summer, so the light arrives at a civilised hour.

The ancient harbour is at the northern end of the beach. Falassarna was a city state on this coast in the Greek and Roman periods, and its harbour basin was cut into the rock. The coastline here was lifted several metres by an earthquake in 365 CE, which left the harbour high and dry. A throne carved from the rock is one of the visible remains, and a stretch of fortification wall rises behind the harbour area. The paths on the site are rough and uneven, so take care with the ground. Check the current opening hours and admission before you go, as the site is guarded and access arrangements can change.

Cafés and restaurants at the beach are open in April only in part. Do not rely on finding lunch at the beach itself. Bring water and a snack, or eat in Kissamos before you drive.

Getting home