After the ColleMar-athon: Ancona and the Conero Coast
The Route: Fano → Ancona → Portonovo → Ancona Logistics: Regional train from Fano to Ancona, about 40 minutes. From Ancona, a local bus runs to the Conero coast. Ancona-Falconara airport is on the same coast, north-west of the city. Marathon Month: May Duration: 2 nights
Fano ──(40 mins regional train)──> Ancona ──(local bus)──> Portonovo bay
Ancona is a working port, not a resort, and that is part of its appeal. The city lies in a curve of the coast where the Apennine foothills end at the sea, and just to the south the limestone headland of Monte Conero drops into the water. It is also the nearest big station to the airport the organiser names.
May in Ancona: mild, with daytime temperatures in the high teens and sea breezes. The Conero coast is greener than the coast to the north, and the beaches are at their quietest before the summer.
Trains from Fano to Ancona run along the coast and take about 40 minutes. Buy a ticket at the station or on the Trenitalia app. Check trenitalia.com for the Monday timetable.
Night one: Ancona
The city rises on a hill above the port. The cathedral of San Ciriaco stands at the top of the Colle Guasco, with a view over the harbour. The climb is steep, so take a bus or taxi up and walk down. Check the opening hours and any dress code.
Near the port, the Arco di Traiano is a Roman arch built in the early second century AD, on the quayside. It is free and flat. Close by, the Mole Vanvitelliana is a pentagonal building on the water that hosts exhibitions. Check its opening days.
Hotels near the station and the port are convenient for a short stay. Confirm that yours is open in May and book a room within walking distance of the harbour.
For dinner, Ancona is known for stoccafisso all'anconetana, dried cod cooked with tomatoes and potatoes, and for the fish stew of the region. Book ahead for a Monday evening.
Night two: The Conero coast
The Passetto is a seafront area in Ancona with a promenade, small beaches and a lift down from the town. It is a good place for a quiet evening walk.
South of the city, the Conero Riviera has white limestone cliffs and clear water. Portonovo is a bay with a pebble beach and a small church, reached by local bus from Ancona. Check the current bus times and whether a summer timetable applies. The paths on the headland are steep, so stay on the beach or the flat waterfront walk. Sirolo and Numana are hilltop villages further south, and both involve climbs.
Some beach restaurants may not open until later in the season. Check before you go.
Getting home
If you are flying, Ancona-Falconara airport is on the coast north-west of the city, and a train or bus link runs from Ancona. Check the timetable for your flight. For a return to Fano, take the coast train north and check the last departure.