← San Juan Marathon·1 night

Barreal: Andean Skies and the El Leoncito Observatories

A night in the Calingasta valley, where July gives dry, dark skies for the El Leoncito observatories and a flat dried-mud plain made for slow walking.

Duration1 night
TransitCoach or hire car, about 200 km from San Juan via Ruta Nacional 149
DepartsSan Juan bus terminal

After the San Juan Marathon: Barreal

The Route: San Juan → Barreal → El Leoncito → San Juan Logistics: Coach or hire car for about 200 km south-west on Ruta Nacional 149, which crosses the pre-Andean foothills. One night in the valley. Marathon Month: July Duration: 1 night

San Juan ──(about 200 km, Ruta Nacional 149)──> Barreal ──(about 34 km)──> El Leoncito
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    └──────────────(same road back)────────────────┘

The marathon finishes in a flat provincial capital. Barreal is the opposite: a small town in the Calingasta valley with the high Andes standing over it, and a sky that astronomers chose for their telescopes.

July in Barreal: This is the right month for the sky and the wrong month for most outdoor activity. Official tourism advice puts the best months for trekking and water sports between November and March. In July the mountains carry snow on the heights, the air is dry and clear, and the night sky is very dark. Nights are cold. Pack for it.

Coaches from San Juan's bus terminal reach Barreal in roughly four hours on past timetables, with morning and evening departures. Check the current operator and times before booking, and buy the return at the same time. Driving is about 200 km on Ruta Nacional 149. Monday, the day after the marathon, is the sensible travel day. Sitting still for four hours with stiff legs is unpleasant but cheaper than a taxi.

Night One: Barreal

Barreal is a quiet town of poplars, irrigation channels and low streets. The flat walk is the town itself. Streets are level and traffic is light, and an easy 20-minute stroll covers most of it. Hotels, cabins and mountain lodges are available, and Barreal is a base for Andean guides. Ask for a room with a heater and book ahead for the observatory visits.

The main reason to come is the sky. The El Leoncito National Park lies about 34 km from the town and holds two observatories. The Observatorio Astronómico El Leoncito (CASLEO) offers guided daytime visits from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 14:30 to 17:00, and also runs night visits. The U. CESCO observatory offers daytime visits from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 16:00 to 18:00, plus night visits. Night visits are limited in number and depend on the weather, so book before leaving San Juan. Daytime visits involve standing and short walks on site; ask when booking about steps.

At El Leoncito the Pampa del Leoncito, also called Barreal Blanco, is a flat plain of dried mud that stretches for several kilometres and looks like a salt flat. It is used for land sailing. It is also the flattest surface in the valley, so a gentle walk along its edge costs the legs little. Take sunglasses and a windproof layer.

The park has an interpretation centre, viewpoints and an easy walk of about 40 minutes to a waterfall. Treat the longer hikes as a different trip.

Wineries are the other draw. Bodega Entre Tapias offers tastings, and Bodega Los Dragones pairs food with views of the Andes. Check opening days and book.

For food, local dishes are humita, empanadas serranas and churrasco criollo. Ask the hotel for the restaurant that is open on a Monday night in winter, because small towns shut early.

Getting Home

Return to San Juan on the same road, by coach or car, and allow the better part of a day. San Juan's airport is UAQ (Domingo Faustino Sarmiento). If the flight home leaves from Buenos Aires or Mendoza, plan to stay another night in San Juan.