After the San Sebastián Marathon: Zarautz and Getaria
The Route: San Sebastián → Zarautz → Getaria → San Sebastián Logistics: Lurraldebus coastal bus to Zarautz, then a short bus hop or a flat coastal walk to Getaria. Back by bus. Marathon Month: November Duration: Day trip
San Sebastián ──(about 35 mins Lurraldebus)──> Zarautz ──(about 10 mins bus, or coastal path)──> Getaria
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San Sebastián ◄──(about 45 mins Lurraldebus)───────────────────────────┘
The San Sebastián Marathon keeps runners on the bay and the river. West of the city, the coast turns into a line of fishing towns and surf beaches. Zarautz and Getaria, next to each other, make a day that is mostly flat and mostly about lunch.
November on the Basque coast is cool, often wet and occasionally bright, with temperatures in the low to mid-teens and big Atlantic swells that bring surfers out at Zarautz. It is off-season, so some beach bars are shut, but the restaurants in Getaria keep going through the winter.
Lurraldebus runs from San Sebastián along the coast to Zarautz in about 35 minutes, with services continuing to Getaria. Euskotren also reaches Zarautz, more slowly. Check times at lurraldebus.eus.
Zarautz
Zarautz has the longest beach in Gipuzkoa, about 2.5 km of sand, and a paved seafront promenade, the Malecón, runs level along much of it. It is the recovery walk of the day: flat, wide, with benches and the surf to watch. Walk to the western end and continue towards Getaria.
The coastal path from Zarautz to Getaria, about 3.5 km, follows the road above the sea with views of Getaria's headland, known as the Ratón, the mouse, for its shape. It is mostly level but exposed and busy with traffic alongside; take the bus for this stretch if the legs or the weather say no.
Getaria
Getaria is a small fishing port with a steep old town running down to the harbour. It claims two famous sons: Juan Sebastián Elcano, who completed the first circumnavigation of the globe after Magellan's death, and the couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga. The Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum stands on the hill above town, with galleries of his dresses; it is reached by a slope and has lifts inside. Opening days are reduced in winter, so check cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com before going.
The town is also the home of txakoli, the sharp, lightly sparkling white wine of the Basque coast, grown on the slopes around it.
Getaria's restaurants grill whole fish, especially turbot, over charcoal in iron baskets outside their doors. Elkano and Kaia-Kaipe, near the harbour, are the best known; book ahead, particularly for Sunday. Cheaper bars in the old town serve the same catch.
The return
Buses back to San Sebastián run into the evening from Getaria, taking about 45 minutes. Check the last departure before settling into a long lunch.